Winding and Setting Your Watch

 

Instructions for winding your mechanical watch

It is best to wind the watch by rotating the crown when it is closest to the case, that is, “fully closed.” Winding is best achieved by winding /rotating the crown in a clockwise direction only.

The watch may safely be wound fully. That means that you may wind the watch until you feel the resistance in the crown indicating that the main spring is tightly wound.

We suggest that the watch be wound fully, daily, or about every forty hours, which is how long it would run if fully wound without rewinding.

In the case of watches with a Power Reserve Tourbillon movement, we suggest that the watch be fully wound every three days or so, about every eighty hours, which is how long it would run if fully wound without rewinding. If there is still room to wind the main spring beyond the power reserve indicator marking, that’s no problem at all.

If the watch is not being worn, try to wind it fully once every two to three weeks, because if left for very long periods of time (months) without running, the oils and lubricants in the movement may thicken and then impair proper functioning.

 

Instructions for setting your mechanical watch

Setting the time

Wind the crown (whilst still in a fully closed position) about ten times.

Pull out the crown all the way, and turn the crown to make the hands turn in a clockwise direction – avoid turning the crown such that the hands turn in a counter-clockwise direction.

If you don’t have a date function on your watch, keep the hands moving in a clockwise direction until you reach the desired time, then push in the crown all the way. Now rotate the crown in a clockwise direction only, until it is fully wound.

If, however, you do have a date function, keep the hands moving in a clockwise direction until the date changes. Now you know where midnight is on your watch! If it’s afternoon, make sure you rotate the hands all the way through 12 hours and then set the time so that the watch knows it’s pm (post meridiem). Keep the hands moving in a clockwise direction until you reach the desired time, then push in the crown all the way. Now rotate the crown in a clockwise direction only, until it is fully wound.

 

Setting the date

Please note that if the time on your watch is between the hours of 10pm and 2am, it’s not the best idea to change the date manually. The watch would be in the process of changing the date over, and forcing the date to change could damage the date mechanism. Either just wait until after 2.00 am, or manually change the time to be after 2.00 am, set the date, and then go back and re-adjust the time to be correct.

After the time has been set and the crown is pushed in all the way, pull the crown out one step or click.
Rotate the crown to advance the date forward to the correct date.
Push the crown back in all the way.

 

Instructions for setting the GMT hand

Wind the watch fully.

Pull out the crown. Rotate the primary hands forward until you reach the desired time on the small GMT hand near 9 o’clock. Please note that this hand shows the time in a 24-hour format.

Then, rotate the primary hands backwards until you reach the desired time on your watch, as shown by the primary hands, taking into account the day/night feature near 3 o’clock.

Push the crown back in.

 

Instructions for winding your mechanical automatic watch

It is best to wind the watch by rotating the crown when it is closest to the case, “fully closed.” Winding is best achieved by winding /rotating the crown in a clockwise direction only.

We suggest that the watch be manually wound for about twenty to twenty-five “winds of the crown” every morning, as no winding occurs during the night whilst the watch has been laid down on a table /in a drawer.  One wind should be the equivalent of one revolution of the crown.

In addition, the motion of the wrist varies so much for every individual that one cannot predetermine just how much winding will take place in an automatic watch from wrist movement alone.

If the watch is not being worn, try to wind it for about twenty “winds of the crown” once every two to three weeks, because if left for very long periods of time (months) without running, the oils and lubricants in the movement may thicken and then impair proper functioning.

 

You’re done!